Back in the U.S.A.
We set foot back in the USA on Drummond Island, Michigan, our 11th state, where immigration seems disinterested in our return. The busy summer season is over and removing boats from the water for winter is their priority. However, another WOW (waiting on weather delay), this time high winds, keeps the marina from lifting boats out of the water and us safely docked on the island for three additional nights.
What to do while on the ‘Gem of the Huron’? Hire an ATV and explore some of its 100 miles of ATV trails and invite fellow Texans and crew of Steadfast to join the fun. Rugged terrain, muddy trails reveal scenic and hardwood forests and breathtaking coastlines over-looking Lake Huron where ice-age rocks litter the beaches.
When the wind finally lays down, on our cruise to Mackinac Island we search and find the 1920’s freighter, the John W. Boardman, protruding from the cliffs near DeTour, Michigan. You can make up all sorts of exciting stories of how it ended up watching the world go by, but in truth the hull was removed and the forward deckhouse was moved by barge to its new life as a cottage.
As we approach, Fort Mackinac sits above our slip and during our stay reminds us of its close proximity with every cannon fired. Taps each night are clear and slow and quite emotional as we scurry back to the boat in time to stand in awe.
Going to dinner through the woods in a horse drawn carriage is magical in daylight, but our post dinner passage from The Woods restaurant, listening to the sound of Salt and Pepper (my pet names for the horses) clomp their way in unison through the dark holds me spellbound. Up until this moment, I didn’t think anything would exceed being met by Olaf in his wolf skin coat transporting us by horse drawn sleigh in Norway. But here we are.
We do climb the hill up to the Grand Hotel and pay the $12.00 per person to walk through the beautifully decorated lobby filled with crowds of tour groups waiting for the lunch buffet. It truly is grand, but after rocking, rocking, rocking in one of the chairs on the 660 foot front porch, we opted to explore the island.
The map, being flat, does not show the 100 foot incline to the hotel. The fort itself sits at 320 feet above Lake Huron. Needless to say, my previous idea of riding bikes throughout the island exceeds my biking skills. Ha! We rent bikes and enjoy a flat ride around the eight mile circumference of the island stopping to climb the stairs to the Arch Rock. Outstanding!
Alas, the wind allows us an extra day on the island, so we seize the moment to take another carriage ride through the woods to The Inn at Stonecliff for an amazing dinner and walk about the property. The pizza oven, movies on the lawn, and fire pits for s’mores all wait for our next visit as we vow to return! What a gem!
Fortunately, we leave the island just as a cruise ship is anchoring out and we cross under the Mackinac Bridge to visit our first city on Lake Michigan. Charlevoix Marina offers courtesy bikes and there are Earl Young’s mushroom houses to find. We also find the dragon on the roof of a retired NASA scientist’s home. If that is not enough to peak your interest, maybe The French Place with their egg and cheese crepes and Ted Lasso Shortbread will do the trick.
Leland, the historical fishing village is our next stop and we are assisted by a dockhand who cannot hide his southern accent. We also meet up again with the crew from Steadfast.
Thankfully, a Preservation Society has kept developers away and protected this charming small village.
We enjoy a wine tasting with Steadfast, dinner at The Cove and a solid loaf of sourdough at the grocery store. Our one treasured take away is the smoked fish sausage from the 6th generation of Carlsons. Reminds me of the Nelson family in Smith Point who are on their 3rd generation of oyster harvesting. We grab a take-away sub sandwich from the Cheese Shanty before heading south along the coast.
Frankfort is having their Ironman 70.3 Michigan and our slip at the marina provides front row seats for the swim and the run. These athletes are impressive. Meanwhile, we enjoy a walk through town to the Storm Cloud brewery with Steadfast crew and I am reminded of my attempt at curling while living in Scotland. I questioned why this was an olympic sport but have now pledged to never make fun of this sport again. It is not easy to glide across the ice with balance and place your curling stone in the winning position. My bottom remembers how cold the ice is.
Our main reason for visiting Ludington is to see the last coal-fired passenger steamship, the S.S. Badger, but are drawn to the sculpture garden that lines the ferry dock as we await its evening arrival. Passengers, automobiles, RV’s, tour buses, bicycles, motorcycles, and commercial trucks cross Lake Michigan to and from Manitowoc, Wisconsin and travel four hours and 60 miles.
Unfortunately, on this night, two pleasure boats have chosen to anchor in the bay where the ferry normally maneuvers into the dock. After multiple blasts of its horn, the ferry spins and thrusts back and forth to approach the waiting staff at the dock, adding about 30 minutes to their trip. At the time we did not know the boats were in their way and are happy to hear this is not their normal docking routine.
After getting settled in Grand Haven, we get a note from Boca Dan who let us use his boat slip way back in Boca Grande, Florida. He has seen our post on Instagram and tells us his summer office is right across the street from the marina. Unfortunately, he is away in Denver but we visit the eclectic Oddside Brewery and window shop on the boardwalk of this lovely lakeside town as the full moon rises.
A quick cruise south and we are in the smaller town of South Haven where we hike to the lighthouse and eat fried perch on the deck of Captain Lou’s. At sunrise we take an early morning walk to The Golden Bakery and leave with a box full of goodies from this home town favorite who has decided to make this their last season after 41 years.
Further south, we had planned to spend some time with friends who summer on Lake Michigan but sadly our schedule is later than expected and they needed to be back in Texas for an event. Texting back and forth with them they talk us through exactly where their house is located and we wave to their red kayak! Sorry to miss you TenHaves!
I can’t emphasize enough how exciting and surprising it is to find a good grocery store in these small towns on the loop. Next stop, New Buffalo, should be proud of Barney’s. My bags are overflowing and new friend from the crew of Certitude is there to offer assistance in exchange for a few of my local apples!
We end up having one of the best meals of our trip at Bentwood Tavern and enjoy getting to know the crew of Certitude. After realizing we all prefer ice cream over the offered desserts we make the hike to Oink’s Dutch Treat where we have to explain to the youngsters behind the counter what Dutch Treat actually means. Ha!
Chicago is only an hour ride from the Amtrak station in this town.
We are now at the southern tip of Lake Michigan and after pulling into Hammond, Indiana, state number 12 for fuel, we cruise up the west coast of Lake Michigan to our marina in Chicago, Illinois, state number 13.
And…we are on Central Standard Time! Woohoo!
We spend a beautiful, sunny afternoon walking through Grant Park to see the Buckingham Fountain, one of the largest fountains in the world.
However, I have to admit my favorite fountain is the Crown Fountain where excited children scream with joy and jump around waiting for the face illuminated on a 50 foot tower to open their mouth like a gargoyle and let water flow over their heads.
Nearby is the infamous Cloud Gate or more commonly called “The Bean” where we meet a young family from New Jersey to help each other out with photos.
Other highlights are finding an FT Weekend at Barnes & Noble located on the campus of DePaul University, wandering the riverside to the tunes of an Octoberfest Band singing ‘Take Me Home, Country Roads”, and a scrumptious dinner at Girl & The Goat.
On our uber ride back to the marina after dinner we head down Randolph Street towards a crowd of people with their cameras aimed right at us. Feeling very important for half a second, I turn around to see the sun setting between the buildings. Known as Chicagohenge, twice a year on equinox, the sun lines up directly with Chicago’s streets. Very cool to see this out of the back window!
To round out our few days in Chicago, we attend a service in the breathtaking 4th Presbyterian Church and get a great recommendation for deep dish pizza at Gino’s East and take full advantage of the Whole Foods nearby.
Chicago is our last stop on the shores of Lake Michigan. However, Chicago is also on the Illinois River so the next post will take us ‘Down the Rivers’ from Chicago to Fairhope, Alabama where we first began this Great Loop quest.
Thanks for following along.
~ Odysea II First Mate