Most Southern of the Upper South…

North Carolina is the most southern state of what was considered the Upper South of the original thirteen colonies. Virginia, Maryland and Delaware complete the group.

Oak Island on starboard reminds me of another Oak Island closer to home as we approach our first port in Southport, NC. Soon after we dock, Robert Creech joins us for an introduction and an invitation to happy hour on his porch. And what a happy porch it is.

Kay and Robert Creech are another example of the hospitality offered by AGLCA Harbor Hosts if you reach out to them. Their beautiful home overlooks the harbor and a place where neighbors wave hello and stop for a chat. One such neighbor shows up with popcorn he purchased at the local cinema to share with Robert and accompanies his infamous Tom Tom Cocktail beautifully. Robert calls it his ‘health drink’ because of its healthy ingredients: fruit and potato juices! (wink, wink) The happy hour is growing.

Our sunrise departure is the beginning of a perfect 37th anniversary…

until it isn’t!

Plans to anchor out are dashed as quickly as our engine stops an hour away from any marina. We now have the chance to check out the efficiency of our tow package and someone is lined up and on their way while the Captain is working furtively to solve the problem himself.

Of course he has the engine running again, however, purely precautionary, we take the tow just in case. I tell the friendly tow boat driver how many times we have seen others being towed and thanked God for our problem free journey. He laughs and deadpans, “Ma’am, every boat has a problem, it just hasn’t been found yet.”

He tows us to Swan Point Marina where we get to meet a guy I have read about on reviews of this otherwise dying marina. Jim is the reason to visit. He hooks us up and when we remember it is our anniversary, he steers us to a longtime family owned ‘diamond in the rough’, Riverview Cafe in Sneads Ferry. He assures us they will pick us up at the marina when we call for reservations.

Sure enough, when the truck pulls up, I ask the driver what he does for the restaurant and he replies, “pretty much everything.” Only when I ask if he is related to the family who runs the restaurant does he reveal his grandfather opened the cafe in 1946.

After a lovely meal, he picks us up and as I point to the water, he is able to explain the cages we have observed.

These are NC shellfish growing areas where the shellfish receive the same nutrients as growing in the wild but for him, as a business owner, are cleaner when he receives them at the cafe. I mention my fear of farm raised seafood and the concerns of what they are fed, but am relieved to hear his explanation and full support of these cleaner products.

We are relieved to not be anchored out as planned, but instead spend a rainy, 20+ mph wind day meeting with a mechanic and catching up on a few projects as the geese preen in the low tide.

Our planned location to anchor out was in the midst of Marine Corp Base Camp LeJeune, where there is the potential of much activity.

Morehead City is underwhelming but will always be remembered for our visit to a Nail Salon for a propane refill. So random!

We did have an awesome sunset!

Heading north, the treasures sprouting above the sea grass…

compete with the lawn art…

and a low tide island only accessible by boat with its own palm tree sculpture…

and horse riders.

At this point of our journey, it is safe to proclaim Oriental, NC as my favorite stop on the Great American Loop. After docking at the Oriental Marina and Inn, we set off on an impressive first impression of this town of 900 welcoming residents with an active social calendar.

Known as the sailing capital of NC, we hear stories of the busier days on the Neuse River while visiting with a few founding members of the New Village Brewery. They have their own pint glasses on the wall to prove that.

New Village Brewery began as a crowdfunded venture and now has special events in the old house with live music in the back yard and themed food trucks in the small parking lot. Sundays are for potlucks. The sense of community is evident.

Lucky for us, Silospalooza is happening while we are here and a day of live music and lemonade punch make the hot day a bit more comfortable.

Walking to church is always a treat on our journey, and church in the waterfront park is a bonus. I am here to challenge any town on the water to offer the same. Watching sailboats glide across the Neuse river as we sing hymns is a fond memory.

At another serendipitous annual event we have the pleasure of meeting Fay Bond at the watermelon party she has hosted every year for 53 years. She turned 100 on September 29th and still calls her snapping turtles at 6:00 p.m. everyday for a feeding. She competed again this year in the local Senior Games in shot put, discus and long jump. What a joy!

We interrupt morning bathing on our way north on the Alligator River where wildlife sighting is prime.

Thankfully, these peaceful moments of cruising prepare us for the rough waters ahead as we approach a drawbridge with a less than proficient bridge tender. Our first encounter with rough water since leaving Galveston Bay in April and our first issue with a lack of communication. Each of these alone would not be a problem for me, but together they are, as we are finally told to !wait! in the turbulent water. Eventually, we are allowed to pass and the next day, with much calmer cruising, are pleasantly surprised by the Pasquotank River…

and the Weeksville Airship Hangar before docking at Lamb’s Marina near Elizabeth City.

It is here we prepare for our voyage through the Dismal Swamp (queue the music from Deliverance) because just the name brings concern to many.

We leave at first light…

and onward we cruise…tentatively.

Others choose another route.

But not this Captain.

We take it slow and are the only boat on the swamp, which is helpful when encountering fallen trees and branches. I can see how passing other boats would cause concern.

What is the story behind these ‘art’ displays?

We come up with ideas as we cruise through the two locks which also have a drawbridge needing to be raised by the same attendant who walks between the two.