We did it! Plan B…

When I say we did it, I do not mean IT as in finished the Great Loop. Because of the unpredictable winds, we pivot from a visit to the Bahamas to cruising south to Key West to cruising the upper keys and crossing the gulf from Bahia Honda State Park north to Everglades City. From here we cruise up the west coast and wave to Fort Myers, where we headed east to Lake Okeechobee last June. This turns out to be the entire Florida coast minus the coast of the large estuary of Apalachee Bay with its numerous shoals and rocks. In other words…our Plan B! Let’s reel it back shall we.

Our return to the boat docked in Daytona, FL after two months home for the holidays, coincides perfectly with the Axiom manned spacecraft launch. North of the Kennedy Space Center, near Haulover Canal we see flamingoes dipping their long pink necks into the water. Something we had not experienced on our way up last June. Unfortunately, my excitement prevents a quality photo.

Our anchorage off of the Space Center provides front row seats and I am reminded of the last manned space mission I had any interest in. I was teaching second grade and our school had made a big deal about the teacher on board the Challenger. The students confusion to our reactions to that fateful launch still haunts me today.

There is trepidation until we hear and feel the sonic boom as the spacecraft continues safely beyond. What a memory.

We quickly break our rule about no repeats on this journey south with another visit to Vero Beach. We have a few days to wait out that wind I mentioned before, so we discover live music at The Loop and Waldo’s, where we meet a couple from Kentucky who have been coming to stay for 30 years. We tear ourselves away from The Beatle Guys cranking out tunes poolside to discover another longtime Vero Beach location, the quirky Ocean Grill where we swap stories and boat cards😉with a group of boaters.

After a visit to the Saturday farmers market and a quick shop and coffee at a gourmet grocery store complete with beignets, we decide Vero Beach has a lot to offer.

When the winds die down enough to make a move, we make the best of a night circling our anchor near Jupiter… (see Captain’s Log for a photo)

and then wave to the Astros who are in Palm Beach for spring training. We snag a slip at a dock in Pompano Beach in time to meet up with a past work colleague of the Captain who graciously hosts us for cocktails overlooking the Atlantic followed by a moonlit dinner at the pier.

I have to admit Pompano Beach catches us by surprise and was never on our radar. Smaller, artsy, great beach and Whole Foods! Ha!

Before our host drives us to Whole Foods, I make a quick visit to BACA (Bailey Contemporary Arts Center) for the exhibition “The Onliest Thing I Could Mostly Do”. Self-taught artists have always fascinated me.

From Pompano Beach, our cruise south varies between a few pockets of undeveloped beauties before hitting the chaos of Ft. Lauderdale and beyond.

The Captain mentions the number of bridges and the no wake zones that many ignore. Of course, there are yachts, and then there are mega-yachts with dinghies the size of our boat. Ha!

Somewhere in this area the friendliest ‘person’ fully covered in black waves from a jet ski. Then we notice the three other jet skis flanking on all sides whose serious demeanors scream ‘maintain distance’. I hope there is a tiny bit of freedom in their excursion!

Cruising through the congestion that is Miami, requires patience.

After a few days south of Miami in Coconut Grove, we enter the Keys, which becomes a satisfying replacement for the Bahamas. We grab a mooring ball in John Pennekamp State Park and explore the mangroves and find a couple of great dining spots who have survived the test of time.

Wind, of course, ruled out a visit to the Coral Reef State Park where the sunken 510 foot USS Spiegel Grove makes up the second largest artificial reef in the world.

A sunrise cruise is always a good idea and The Hideout is a great start to the day before exploring the mangroves. My favorite meal so far on our journey is enjoyed at the Fish House located a short walk away from the park.

Heavier forecasted winds motivate us to cruise a few short miles south to a marina, and I realize we are still in Key Largo. True to its name, ‘long key’ is 33 miles long. After surviving the 90 degree turn aptly named “Crash Corner”, we are welcomed at the dock by other loopers who see our arrival. The crew of Faith hand us fresh baked cookies to accompany their boat card. Oh, the pressure is on!

On the advice of the dockhand, we head to Jimmy Johnsons Big Chill for a sunset cocktail, but instead move to the nearby Caribbean Club for a much better sunset and way better vibe. Where a life size photo of Bogie and Bacall stand among the true locals drinking and smoking (allowed since no food is served, or so we are told) to remind you the infamous movie was filmed here.

Islamorada deserves a revisit by land for further exploration, Meanwhile, our peaceful anchorage near Lorelei Cabana Bar prompts a few dinghy rides for live music, a magic show and boat card swapping. We also meet another loop boat who dinghies over for a quick visit.

As soon as we dock in Marathon, our new boat neighbors invite us to join them for breakfast the next morning at the American Legion. The line out the door is proof enough of its popularity. A table of delightful ladies in red shirts take our breakfast plate order, hand us a number and take our money before pointing us in the direction of large round tables to find a seat. Before long, ladies in red shirts, enter the room carrying plates of pancakes, eggs with biscuits, yelling a number.

These ladies are called Honeys and have badges with a number. Honey #19 becomes a favorite because of her theatrical entrance, and I make a point of meeting her after we finish our meal. Turns out her name is Victoria, middle name Lynn, born in 1959, and was a teacher. We happen to mention the upcoming variety show at the local theater and she tells us she wrote the opening number for “One Weekend Only” and sings in a barbershop quartet. Of course, we become groupies and snag tickets for the show.

Check out the sign behind me!

Marathon is the kind of place with a sense of community.

We learn of a $1 bus to Key West, and since we clearly were not going to make it there by boat, we spend a day meandering around.

We didn’t take the time to visit the Hemingway House on our first visit to Key West way back when, so this time we make it happen.

Another highlight of Marathon is meeting the Hoppy Trails crew. We have followed this other Ranger Tug family of three as it cruises along the loop via Instagram so it is amazing to meet them in person.

After fueling up at Key Fisheries, we load up with some fresh tuna and frozen Hog Fish for another day, and cruise south to Bahia Honda State Park. We finally get in the crystal clear water for some snorkeling and are actually quite impressive with the conchs and schools of fish.

We meet a few other loop boats and take long walks while we wait for the perfect day to head north to Everglades City.

It is a beautiful crossing in waters every shade of blue. Even ‘cerulean blue’ as I giggle at the scene from Devil Wears Prada. Ballyhoo skip across the water near No Name Key and we sigh with awe and relief.

Six hours later we enter Everglades City for a slip at the Everglades Isle RV/Marina for our impressive warm welcome.

The other names on the board end up belonging to great company over the next few days.

We rent bikes one day and explore Chokoloskee Island, which is built on seashells, helping keep the mosquito count down because of the natural drainage. Live music draws us in to the HaVanna Cafe for lunch. What a gem!

Other highlights include:

our first stone crab…

while watching a sunset gator cruising by to make us feel at home…

and the best named newspaper discovery.

Cruising around town by golf cart, we see a sign for gospel music that evening at the baptist church and they do not disappoint. The local talent is impressive.

Our first visit to Marco Island was during our odyssey on land back in 1999 to attend the beautiful wedding for the Captain’s sister. We didn’t even make it to the beach this visit but our walk to the farmers market introduced us to the Marco Island Owl Watch program. Very cool.

Shoutout to LeeBe Fish for their no fuss, tasty menu.

Naples reminds us why we loved it the first time we visited and we are just in time for the St. Patricks Day parade. We also join 1000 people for church in the park.

Next stop is to check up on Sanibel Island. They are clearly still in the midst of rebuilding after Hurricane Ian and after a visit with a local businessman, he points out the three levels. Those with money have already rebuilt. Those waiting on funding are in the process of rebuilding. Those with no funding sit untouched.

Currently, the marina brings warm blueberry muffins to your boat each morning and lovely shells still abound along a peaceful walk on the beach. And…there is ice cream. Sanibel is on the mend.

The Gasparilla Inn has intrigued me every time I see its splendor on display in magazines. Thankfully, it was spared terrible damage, for the most part, during Ian and we were too close to not visit lovely Boca Grande, or as many refer to it, Gasparilla Island.

Our last cruise on this leg is to Punta Gorda where Plan B ends and Odysea II’s journey continues on land to be lowered back into the Chesapeake Bay, the most northern point of our progress along the Great American Loop last October.

As we cruise north, I look forward to new opportunities to live up to my new title.😉

Thanks for following along!

~ First Mate